The owner of the pub crowned the best in the UK in a new consumer guide has warned that it is facing “the worst December” in his 21-year stewardship as a result of the pandemic. Ben Jones of The Olive Branch – a rural gastropub in Clipsham, Rutland, said it was likely to survive because of its popularity as a foodie destination, but many of its neighbouring “wet-led” pubs – serving alcohol only – were now facing last orders. “We’ve put the Christmas decorations up and set up five gazebos outside with cosy blankets and faux log burners to accommodate smaller groups of up to six ” said Jones, managing director and co-founder of the pub in England’s smallest county. “But we have had to scrap Christmas party menus for large groups and we think business will be down around 20% on a usual year. We had been planning to celebrate our 21st anniversary this month but it will be our worst ever December.” The Olive Branch – which was this week named the pub of the year in the Good Pub Guide 2021 and which has already attracted a slew of major industry awards including the same title in 2014 – had been the victim of a “rollercoaster” year since the closure of all pubs, restaurants, bars and cafes in March, Jones said. “Due to the government’s illogical, pub-killing restrictions, we will not be able to celebrate our anniversary safely with locals and villagers,” he said. “A pub is about the whole experience – the beer, wine, food and atmosphere. Pubs are amazing places. But right now, due to the restrictions, we aren’t really a pub. We aren’t able to welcome all; we aren’t able to enjoy a drink and some local gossip at the bar. Many others less fortunate than us will not make it.” The pub, which also has rooms, was hailed by the guide as being “top of its game”, attracting visitors from far and wide as well as enjoying strong local support. But in a gloomy assessment of the wider sector, pubs were now facing their “darkest moments” amid continued restrictions, lockdowns, closures and job losses, consultant editor Fiona Stapley warned in the foreword of the Good Pub Guide 2021. Representatives of thousands of entries described this year as a “total nightmare” after working hard to reopen following the initial lockdown, only to be ordered to close again. The 992-page guide, which has 5,000 regional listings, went to print just as the latest three 3 system for England was announced. “Despite being battle-weary and worried sick about keeping their businesses up and running, I am pleased to say these plucky, extraordinary people retain a teeny spark of hope,” Stapley writes. “All know that the road into 2021, or until a vaccine is widely available, is going to be frighteningly rocky, but they do believe that if they are able to pull together with loyal customers, local suppliers, a helpful bank and a great deal of energy and luck, many will survive.” Of the other awards, The Unruly Pig, near Woodbridge in Suffolk – which has reopened seven days a week – was named dining pub of the year for its ambience and “Britalian” food – English classics with an Italian twist. The Boat in Erbistock, Wrexham, was crowned best new pub and The Fat Cat in Norwich beer pub of the year. The Cholmondeley Arms in Malpas, Cheshire, picked up best gin pub for the second year running for its eye-watering range of 366 botanicals – one for each day of the year. The British Beer and Pub Association, meanwhile, reported that beer sales across all pubs in the UK last weekend were down 84% on the same time last year, with fewer than half opening their doors. “These numbers illustrate the perilous situation our pubs find themselves in this Christmas,” said the BBPA chief executive, Emma McClarkin. “Christmas should be a time where we can enjoy one another’s company in the pub round a warm fire and with a fresh pint in hand. Christmas sadly just won’t be the same this year without our pubs being able to open properly. The new restrictions are knocking the stuffing out of our Christmas trade. It truly is madness when you consider cinemas, theatres and sports venues can still open and serve alcohol.”
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