Britons turn to luxury food and drink to see out dismal 2020 in style

  • 12/28/2020
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From champagne to gold-flecked smoked salmon and even posh New Year’s Eve takeaways, Britons in lockdown are popping more premium corks and splashing out on luxury food treats to help them see out a miserable year in style. Figures show that many shoppers have traded up to premium fizz – spending nearly a quarter more in the last three months than the same time last year – to tide them over Christmas and celebrate the new year. Overall, sales of champagne in supermarkets and shops were up 16% by volume and 22% by value in the last 12 weeks, equivalent to 2.3m bottles worth £63m, the Wine and Spirit Trade Association reported on Monday. “This has been an incredibly difficult year, so it’s great that we can end on a positive note that champagne sales, after years of decline, are starting to pick up,” said Miles Beale, the WSTA’s chief executive. “There is no better way to celebrate than with a bottle of fizz, and our numbers show that, even with everything that has gone on this year, many of us are still looking to celebrate or bring a little extra sparkle with a bottle of bubbly. Many will consider it a little luxury for a festive period when we are having to celebrate at home.” Similarly, sales of luxury foods such as smoked salmon, pâtés, fine cheeses and chocolates soared in the run-up to Christmas as Britons indulged in pick-me-up “treats”. The East End-based smoked salmon specialist H Forman & Son, whose supplies of its award-winning London Cure smoked salmon to top restaurants collapsed following lockdown in March, has enjoyed record sales through its Forman & Field home delivery arm, more than double those of last year. Shoppers stocked up on smoked salmon and pâté, British artisan cheeses and its sellout “ultimate care package” hamper, which proved a popular choice to send to elderly relatives and student offspring. Its owner, Lance Forman, said: “Forman’s has been around a long time – since 1905 – and we’ve seen a few recessions. When times are tough, people still need a touch of luxury to lighten those darker days. They may not be able to travel as much or may have to hold back on large purchases, but a little taste of luxury doesn’t need to break the bank.” Waitrose said sales of deluxe salmon – including its gin-infused smoked salmon adorned with gold lustre – were up 18% on last year, and those of its premium own-brand No 1 cheeses and Christmas confectionery up 55% and 19% respectively. “The holiday period is the perfect time to indulge in a little luxury, and despite no celebratory events this year, shoppers are still embracing the sheer decadence of a glass of fizz,” said Rebecca Hull, the supermarket’s champagne and sparkling wine buyer. “While champagne remains a popular choice, it’s fantastic to see shoppers broadening their sparkling horizons as the popularity of our English sparkling wine continues to grow.” At the Co-op, sales of champagne doubled over Christmas, with alternatives such as pink prosecco also popular. Simon Cairns, the retailer’s head of drinks, said: “Champagne sales have been bubbling over this year as shoppers have been choosing more premium bottles of wine to make the most of more at-home drinking occasions.” Top UK hotels forced by lockdown restrictions to switch to takeaway services have been striving to offer the full New Year’s Eve restaurant experience in the comfort of diners’ homes. In London, the Savoy’s celebration meal for two comprises five courses for an eye-watering £350. Homemade foie gras terrine or chilled lobster, beef wellington or Scottish salmon, a selection of British cheeses and chocolate fondant can be washed down with the bottle of Louis Roederer champagne included in the price. The Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cartmel, Cumbria, has sold out of its £95 five-course meal for one, although three-course options are still available for delivery nationwide.

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