The recipe Thoroughly wash and trim 400g of greens. Separate the stalks and slice them finely. Slice or tear the leaves into manageable pieces. Make a spice paste by putting 3 peeled cloves of garlic in a spice mill or food processor with 2 seeded medium-sized red chillies, 1 large stalk of lemongrass very finely sliced, 1 tsp of ground turmeric and half a tsp of sea salt flakes. Reduce to a coarse paste. Warm a wok or large frying pan, add 3 tbsp of groundnut or vegetable oil then stir in the spice paste and let it fry for a minute or two. Add the sliced stalks to the pan and leave to fry for 2 or 3 minutes with the occasional stir. Mix together 1 tbsp of dark soy sauce, 2 tbsp of fish sauce, 2 tbsp of lime juice and 1 lightly heaped tsp of caster sugar. Add the torn leaves to the pan and let them soften, turning them over occasionally with kitchen tongs until they are bright and tender. Add the dressing and toss the leaves and stalks in it. Lastly, add a handful of mint and coriander leaves and serve in bowls. Enough for 2 The trick The stalks – far too good to waste – need a minute or two longer to come to tenderness than the leaves. Give them a good 2 or 3 minutes cooking before you introduce the leaves. Depending on which vegetables you use, the cooking time will vary, but shouldn’t be longer than 5 or 6 minutes in total. I suggest getting the dressing ready and waiting. The twist Cabbage – all varieties except red – the kales, cavolo nero and mustard greens are good here, but the best results come from a mixture of leaves. If you include spinach, even the tougher, pointed leaf variety, then add it only at the very last minute.