The recipe Make a dressing by slicing a blood orange in half and squeezing the juice into a bowl. Add the juice of half a lemon. Stir in 1 tsp of capers. Season with black pepper, then pour in 3 tbsp of olive oil and a little salt. Your dressing should be clean tasting, sharp and slightly salty. Remove the peel from 3 medium-sized blood oranges. Cut each fruit into about 6 thin slices, placing each in the dressing as you go, then refrigerate. Stir together 100ml of yoghurt and 100ml of mayonnaise, season with black pepper, 2 tsp of grain mustard, 2 tsp of white wine vinegar and 2 tbsp of chopped parsley. Slice 6 small gherkins (cornichons) and add them to the sauce. Peel a small celeriac, a carrot and a beetroot. The total prepared weight should be 400g. Grate them, electronically or with a hand grater on a coarse setting, into matchstick-thick shreds. Toss the grated roots with the mayonnaise and yoghurt dressing. To serve, arrange the slices of orange on a main serving dish or individual plates, pile the dressed roots in the centre, then spoon the orange dressing over the fruit. Enough for 2 The trick The easiest way to prepare the oranges is to remove a small slice from both top and bottom with a very sharp knife, place the fruit cut side down on a chopping board, then slice away the peel, cutting downwards, following the shape of the fruit. Grate the vegetables too finely and the result will be soggy, too thick and the salad will be too crunchy to eat. The twist Use any crisp root vegetable – mouli, parsnip or kohlrabi – here, but make sure to include at least a little carrot for its pleasing sweetness. Grapefruit will work in place of the oranges. The dressing is bright and sharp in contrast to the creamy remoulade sauce, but you could add 1 tsp of honey if you want to temper its citrus bite. I often add a single pickled chilli here, too.