Check 250g of mixed mushrooms, trim their stalks and remove any growing medium from their roots. Separate them into those you need to slice, such as king oyster mushrooms, and those that cook in seconds, such as enoki or shimeji. Slice the larger mushrooms into pieces no thicker than a £1 coin. Warm a griddle pan, very lightly oil the slices of mushroom, then place them down on the griddle and cook for a minute or two. They should have dark lines across them. Remove and set aside. Peel and finely grate a small knob of ginger (25g maximum) and mash it to a paste. Heat 1 litre of vegetable stock or mushroom broth in a saucepan. Whisk in 3 tbsp of white or brown miso paste, the ginger and bring to the boil. Add all the mushrooms, including those you have grilled, and lower the heat to a simmer. Let the soup cook for 6-8 minutes. Ladle the soup and mushrooms into deep bowls and serve. This is great way to use those packs of assorted mushrooms. While being delicious, they all need to cook for different times, so this recipe works well, as you can add them to the broth in batches. Thick stemmed first, then the thinner, more fragile varieties. As the season changes, I swap the dark brown miso paste I have been using all winter for a white miso. There is still the same deep umami savour, but the flavour is lighter and less salty. At this time of year, when the weather can turn on a sixpence, I alternate them. This is my basic, go-to miso mushroom soup, ready to eat as it is or to embellish as you wish. Add shredded spring onions, spring greens (cook them lightly first in a separate pan) or a few wild garlic leaves.