A chilly night brought on the idea of a dark and sumptuous stew, as black as liquorice, sweet with prunes and spicy from roughly torn lengths of chorizo. There was a touch of the Middle East to this supper. The classic marriage of meat and fruit, but also in its spicing – I used ground cinnamon, coriander and cumin. Once the sausage and prunes have simmered, there is an innate softness, almost a velvety quality to the sauce. I include a scattering of crisp crumbs with orange zest and rosemary, added for contrast and to thicken the cooking juices, but also to use the end of a loaf whose presence was haunting me. Such recipes – some might call it a braise, others a casserole – are something I would swipe from my plate with a jagged piece of flatbread. Others may prefer a simple rice pilau, lightly scented with lemon zest and coriander or speckled with toasted cumin seeds. It is difficult to think of anything more appropriate. I like the depth that prunes add to this, but there is no reason not to use apricots if you prefer something sharper. Figs might be too sweet an addition, but are worth a try. The first of the season’s pears have arrived in the shops. Some are worth keeping for a few weeks, turning them every day until they reach their brief moment of perfection. In my experience this is a matter of days, so keep a close eye on them so they don’t turn into a grainy, melting sorbet. The harder pears are good for cooking. A slow putter in a light sugar syrup with lemon is my go-to recipe, but I think they can be more interesting when roasted with a splash of sherry and a fruit jelly – apple perhaps or orange marmalade. As the pears roast it is a good idea to baste them, or turn them over in the glossy citrus sauce. Fine eating as a warm autumn pudding, but good cold, too, for Sunday breakfast. Chorizo, prunes and almonds Rice pilau is a rather pleasing accompaniment here. Serves 3-4 soft ‘cooking’ chorizo 450g olive oil 2 tbsp red onion 1, large mushrooms 3, medium soft dried prunes 125g skinned almonds 50g cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp chicken stock 500ml For the pangrattato: butter 50g breadcrumbs 75g orange zest from 1 small fruit parsley 4 tbsp, chopped Break the chorizo into pieces about the length of a wine cork. Rough pieces are better than knife-cut straight edges. Warm the oil in a casserole over a moderate heat, then add the chorizo and let it cook for 3 or 4 minutes until it is starting to colour and the oil in the pan has turned a delicious rust colour. Lift out the pieces of chorizo with a draining spoon and set aside. Meanwhile, peel and roughly chop the onion, then add to the pan and continue cooking until it starts to soften and turn translucent. Slice the mushrooms into 1cm pieces, then add them to the onions, letting them cook in the chorizo oil and soak up its flavours. Return the sausage to the pan, add the prunes and skinned whole almonds. Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Grind the cumin and coriander seeds to a fine powder in a pestle and mortar, then add the cinnamon and stir into the onion, sausage and mushroom mixture. Stir in the chicken stock, season with salt and pepper, bring it to the boil, then cover with a lid and transfer to the oven to bake for about 45 minutes. For the pangrattato: melt the butter in a shallow pan over a moderate heat, then add the breadcrumbs, letting them cook until golden, stirring regularly. Stir in the grated zest, chopped parsley and a little coarse salt. Ladle the stew into a serving dish, scatter the seasoned crumbs over the surface and serve. Baked pears with marmalade and oloroso Keep an eye on the sauce as it cooks. You want it to be thick enough to lightly coat the pears, but take care it doesn’t caramelise into liquid toffee. Serves 4 caster or granulated sugar 125g pears 4, medium lemon 1, medium orange marmalade 350g oloroso or other medium- sweet sherry 125ml dried mulberries or sultanas 3 tbsp Make a light syrup: put the sugar in a small saucepan, add 500ml of water and bring it to the boil. Peel the pears, leaving the stems intact. Cut the lemon in half, squeeze the juice into the pan and lower the heat so the syrup simmers. Lower the pears into the syrup, partially cover with a lid, then leave to cook until tender. Depending on the variety and ripeness of your pears, expect them to be ready from about 20-35 minutes. Test them with a skewer – it should slide in effortlessly. Remove the pears from the heat. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Place a roasting tin over a moderate heat, add the marmalade and the sherry and bring to the boil. Add the dried fruits – mulberries or sultanas – then lift the pears from their pan and lower them into the roasting tin. Pour in 125ml of the pears’ cooking syrup then slide into the oven and bake for about 25 minutes. The pears are ready when the sauce is thick and bubbling. Serve them in small bowls and spoon the sauce over them.