‘Stunning lakes and majestic mountains’: readers’ tips from Europe

  • 7/5/2024
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For a few Dolomites more, Italy Alleghe in Belluno, 80 miles north of Venice, is a picturesque town by a stunning lake, framed by the majestic eastern Dolomites. We found the streets really charming, the local cuisine exceptional and enjoyed exhilarating hikes on which we barely encountered another soul. Alleghe was the perfect base for exploring one of Italy’s most enchanting and unspoiled regions. Lorna Young Rock windows and waterfalls, Slovenia Kranjska Gora in the Julian Alps has some excellent peaks for thrill-seekers. Try Prisank (2,547 metres) and watch for the amazing rock window on the way up. Mala Mojstrovka (2,332 metres) has wonderful views and is easier to climb. We loved the walk to Zelenci’s emerald green pools and visited Martuljek waterfall, passing through beautiful woodland. We relaxed on the shores of Lake Jasna, absorbing the 360-degree views, and ate delicious creamy kremna rezina cake at the lakeside cafe. Next, we cycled into north-east Italy on the fantastic off-road trail. Matthew Albania’s Accursed but beautiful peaks The Albanian Alps, or Accursed Mountains, offer dramatic peaks, bucolic pastoral valleys, and freezing turquoise rivers. While many tourists opt for a quick visit to walk the 11-mile Theth to Valbonë pass, we spent five days in Theth, staying at the wonderful and homely Bujtina Vellezerit Grrela (doubles from £49 B&B), which provides excellent traditional Albanian food. Relatively undeveloped, Theth is a relaxing base from which to recover from the challenging mountain hikes. Exceptional views and warm June evenings spent watching the swallows and fireflies against the backdrop of the peaks were truly memorable. Emily Lakeside monasteries, North Macedonia At Lake Ohrid, one of Europe’s deepest lakes, we recently spent wonderful days exploring the monasteries and ruins around by the water’s edge. We had lunch on the wooden veranda of a restaurant, jutting out so you can drop your feet in the clear water, and finished the day with a tasting at a local winery. North Macedonia has a unique blend of Balkan and Mediterranean influences, from the domed churches to the delicious plates of grilled vegetables, lamb and fresh sheep’s cheese. Sofia Going solo on Lake Bracciano, near Rome Lake Bracciano, an hour’s drive north of Rome, was the perfect place to relearn how to enjoy (really enjoy) a solo holiday, after completely losing my travel mojo during the pandemic. Motorboats are banned and the water is cool, clear, and perfect for swimming, paddleboarding and lazing around. The three sleepy towns on the lake – Bracciano, Anguillara, Trevignano – boast a staggering array of restaurants and aperitivo spots. I felt cosseted by the locals, who were keen to hear my tips for visiting the islands of Scotland (where I’m from) and were patient with my dodgy Italian. I’m already planning my return. Ealasaid Inspired by Newby in Italy’s Apennines We explored the mountains of Italy’s Emilia Romagna region, inspired by Eric Newby’s book Love and War in the Apennines, which recounts his experiences hiding from the German army on mountain farms during the second world war. We followed in his footsteps in the mountains south of Parma, hiking through wooded areas to reach the main crinale (ridge), from where you get a fantastic view of the Ligurian coast. The paths are well marked, and we stayed in one of the rifugios (alpine huts) run by the Club Alpino Italiano (from €55 half board). Food is seasonal and local: think mushrooms, polenta, homemade pasta and cured meats. RW Break for the border on the local train, Slovenia to Italy To get from Lake Bled to Italy you might be inclined to go back to Ljubljana and take a fast train or bus to Trieste. Instead, take one of the most scenic rides in Slovenia – the regional train from Bled Jezero station (at the western end of the lake) to the Slovenian town of Nova Gorica on the Italian border. The 90-minute journey, which only cost us €7.30 each, took us from Lake Bled through the Bohinj valley, offering views of the Julian Alps and emerald green waters of the River Soca. Once at Nova Gorica, walk about 20 minutes to cross the border to enter Italy at the pretty town of Gorizia. Frances Li Glacial sojourn near Chamonix Chamonix is best known as a ski resort but it is just as charming in the warmer months. Setting off from the village of Les Praz, on Chamonix’s outskirts, we hiked through the peaceful forest, stopping several times to take in the breathtaking views of lush greenery against snowcapped mountains. In the forest we discovered Chalet de la Floria, at 1,350 metres, where we enjoyed an omelette and tarte myrtille (blueberry tart). The next day we took a funicular train to the ice grotto in the Mer du Glace glacier. It was stunning: the cold was intense, there were impressive ice sculptures and we learned fascinating details on the history of the glaciers. Nitika Gliding across Lake Lugano, Switzerland/Italy Lake Lugano is shared between Italy and Switzerland and last summer we found a beautiful way to explore both parts of it. We took the gleaming white Swiss public Navigazione Lago di Lugano ferry on a £20 day return. Setting off at 10.30am from Porto Ceresio in Italy, the vessel glides along super-smooth waters, crisscrossing the lake, stopping at villages with stone houses, alternating stops in Switzerland and Italy, including at the brilliant Swiss Miniatur miniature open air museum at Melide. Throughout the trip there are views of pine tree-adorned slopes and distant snowy peaks. Arriving at Lugano after just over an hour, we explored the beautiful town and even managed a dip in the lake, returning at 7pm to take in the sunset views. Nigel Winning tip: such larks in Interlaken, Switzerland My husband and I took our four-year-old son on his first foreign adventure, travelling to Interlaken via Amsterdam using overnight ferries and trains. We arrived, tired from the journey, to see Thunersee’s brilliant turquoise waters glistening in early summer sunshine. Just to the east of Interlaken is another beautiful lake: Brienzersee. In the following days, we explored the surrounding mountains, hiking to Mürren from the Lauterbrunnen cable car. It was an unforgettable adventure for us all. Hannah

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