In a sauté pan, warm 3 tbsp of olive oil. Place 2 large, juicy chicken breasts, lightly seasoned with salt and black pepper, into the oil, and let them colour for a few minutes. Baste them from time to time with the oil, letting them cook for 10 minutes or so. When they are pale gold, turn them over and continue cooking. Meanwhile, chop 3 small young leeks into thick slices, wash them thoroughly, then add to the pan. Cover with a lid and let the chicken and leeks cook for 8-10 minutes until the leeks have softened but not coloured. Once the leeks are soft yet still brightly coloured, pour in a wine glass of white vermouth or white wine and 200ml of good chicken stock, turn up the heat so it bubbles enthusiastically. When it has started to reduce, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon and 2 tbsp of chopped tarragon leaves. Season with a little more salt and black pepper and continue cooking until the chicken is cooked through and the leeks are luscious. Serves 2. Ready in 30 minutes I use large chicken breasts, weighing between 200-245g each, with the skin on and the small bone still attached. If you want something a little richer, add a couple of tbsp of crème fraîche towards the end of cooking. I like mashed potatoes with any juicy chicken sauté, but this isn’t really the weather for it. A light rice pilau is a good idea, so that it can soak up all the lemony juices.