Recipes for success: Chef Mukkram Kazim offers advice and a lobster thermidor and pommes Anna recipe

  • 8/9/2024
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DUBAI: Mukkram Kazim, head chef at French fine-dining restaurant L’ami Dave in Mansard Riyadh, began his career aged 18 in the UK, where he studied culinary arts and gained experience in fine dining. Kazim worked in prestigious restaurants in London before taking on “a significant role” with a luxury cruise line under famed US chef Thomas Keller. That job took him across Europe, America, Asia and Australia, broadening his culinary perspective. Kazim then opened his own restaurant, Gusto Italian, in England before taking the lead in the kitchen at L’ami Dave. Here, Kazim discusses common mistakes, his favorite dish to cook, and his management style.   When you started out what was the most common mistake you made?  A mistake many chefs make early in their career is not properly tasting and seasoning dishes as they cook. It’s easy to assume that a dish will turn out well without frequent adjustments, but flavors can change during cooking. Regular tasting and adjustments are crucial for a balanced final dish. What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? Focus on mastering basic techniques. Understanding how to properly handle knifes, cook vegetables and manage heat can make a huge difference. Once you’re comfortable with the basics, experimenting with flavor and ingredients becomes much easier and more enjoyable. What ingredient can instantly improve any dish? A high-quality sea salt. It enhances the natural flavors of ingredients and can make a noticeable difference in taste. Just a pinch can elevate the overall dish. When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food? What’s the most-common mistake that you find in other restaurants? Yes, as a chef, I think it’s natural to critique food when dining out. One common mistake I notice is inconsistency. Sometimes dishes can be under seasoned or unevenly seasoned, which affects the overall flavor. What’s your favorite cuisine? I usually go for Arabic or Indian cuisine, especially dishes featuring rice and meat. I enjoy the depth of flavors and the complexity of spices that these cuisines offer. Dishes like biryani or kabsa are particularly appealing because they combine aromatic spices with tender meat and flavorful rice, making for a satisfying and rich meal. What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? A simple pasta aglio e olio. Just pasta, garlic, olive oil and a pinch of red pepper flakes. It’s flavorful and satisfying, and can be made in about 20 minutes with minimal effort. Plus, it’s a great way to use up staples and can be easily customized with extra ingredients. What customer behavior most annoys you? When they ask for excessive or frequent changes to a dish after it’s been ordered. Accommodating special requests is part of the job, but constant adjustments can complicate the preparation process and impact the timing and quality of the meal. Clear communication about preferences and limitations means a smoother dining experience for everyone. What’s your favorite dish to cook? Mutton curry with spinach. I love it — the combination of tender lamb and vibrant spinach, infused with aromatic spices. The process of blending spices and achieving the perfect balance of flavors is incredibly satisfying, and the result is a dish that’s both comforting and impressive. What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? One of the most challenging to perfect is soufflé. It requires precise timing, temperature control, and the right technique to achieve the perfect rise and texture. Even slight deviations can lead to a deflated or uneven soufflé, making it a true test of a chef’s skill and attention to detail. As a head chef, what are you like? I strive to strike a balance between being authoritative and approachable. I believe in leading with respect and setting high standards, while ensuring that every aspect of the kitchen runs smoothly. My approach involves clear communication and a commitment to quality. Chef Mukkram’s lobster thermidor and pommes Anna recipe INGREDIENTS: 1 whole lobster (including tails and claws); 120g thermidor sauce (instructions below); 30g unsalted butter; 180g of pommes Anna (instructions below); 2g microgreens For the thermidor sauce (yield = 2.4kg) INGREDIENTS: 150g butter; 100g flour; 900ml milk; 1l cream; 200g shallots; 150g leeks; 15g garlic; 200ml American malt; 750ml shrimp stock (instructions below); 180g gruyere cheese; 25g dijon mustard; 40g Maldon salt INSTRUCTIONS: Combine 125g of butter with the flour and mix until evenly distributed. This is your beurre manié. Set aside and keep at room temperature. Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the remaining butter. When the butter foams, add the shallot, leeks, garlic and salt. Sweat the vegetables until soft, do not allow them to brown. Add malt and cook for a minute. Add the shrimp stock. Reduce the liquid by half, add the cream and milk and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the beurre manié. Reduce to a very low heat and cook for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Whisk in the mustard and cheese. Strain the sauce through chinois. For the pommes Anna INGREDIENTS: 1 kg sliced potatoes; 220g duck fat; 20g Maldon salt INSTRUCTIONS: Peel the potatoes and slice thinly. Pour the duck fat on top and mix well. Layer the sliced potatoes in a mold, seasoning each layer. Cover with parchment and cook at 180 C for 30 minutes. Once cooked place a tray on top Leave overnight in the fridge to press and set. For the shrimp stock INGREDIENTS: 1kg seafood shells; 2L water; 250g torpedo shallots, peeled, quartered; 200g celery; 60g sliced lemon; 100g fennel; 10g black peppercorns; 5g fresh bay leaf INSTRUCTIONS: Roast the shells in the oven. Add all the ingredients to a large pot, along with the roasted shells. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes.

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