Using a vegetable peeler, cut 400g of courgettes into long, wide, thin ribbons. Pour 4 tbsp of olive oil into a large mixing bowl, then season with salt and black pepper. Peel 3 cloves of garlic and crush them to a paste, then stir into the oil. In a dry, shallow pan, over a moderate heat, lightly brown 3 tbsp of pine kernels, watching them carefully so they do not burn. Set them aside and return the pan to the heat. Put the ribbons of courgette and their oil into the hot pan and let them cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until they are starting to soften and become translucent. Finely grate the zest from a medium-sized lemon. As the courgettes start to colour lightly here and there, tear up a large handful (about 10g) of basil leaves and add them to the courgettes. Stir in the lemon zest, then squeeze some of the juice from the lemon into the pan. Add the toasted pine kernels to the courgettes. Divide 250g of ricotta between 2 plates or shallow bowls, then spoon the courgettes next to them. Pour any lemon and basil-scented oil from the pan over the ricotta and toss gently together. Serves 2. Ready in 35 minutes I often make this as a side dish, without the ricotta, for grilled fish. It works especially well with white fish, such as sole and plaice. You could crumble the ricotta and toss it with the courgettes if you wish. The flavours here are mild and gentle, especially if you use new, summer garlic. You could introduce some grated parmesan if you like. Instead of basil, use torn tarragon and mint leaves. To make a more substantial version, cook a handful of pappardelle in boiling, salted water, drain and toss with the courgettes and basil.